House of Fear in Heart of Moscow: Soviet History in Miniature

莫斯科市中心的「恐懼之家」：蘇聯歷史的縮影

MOSCOW — Moscow's most famous landmarks — Red Square, the Kremlin, and the domes of St. Basil's Cathedral — are swarmed with World Cup fans doing a bit of sightseeing in between matches. Just upriver, more adventurous tourists will find an anonymous-looking apartment block whose history sheds light on the Soviet Union's darkest days.

俄國莫斯科（Moscow）最著名的幾個地標，像是紅場（Red Square）、克里姆林宮（the Kremlin）和聖瓦西里主教座堂（St. Basil's Cathedral，也譯作聖巴索大教堂）的洋蔥型圓頂(dome)，都擠滿(be swarmed with)了 2018 年世界盃足球賽（World Cup）的球迷，他們趁著球賽之間的空檔觀光旅遊。不過，只要往莫斯科河（Moskva River）的上游走，更有冒險精神的(adventurous)遊客就會發現一座看上去不起眼的(anonymous-looking)公寓大樓(block)。這棟大樓的歷史反映(shed light on . . .)了蘇聯（Soviet Union）最黑暗的時光。

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House of Fear in Heart of Moscow: Soviet History in Miniature
VOA News
July 05, 2018 8:21 AM Henry Ridgwell (source)

House of Fear in Heart of Moscow: Soviet History in Miniature

莫斯科市中心的「恐懼之家」：蘇聯歷史的縮影

July 05, 2018 8:21 AM
Henry Ridgwell

MOSCOW — Moscow's most famous landmarks — Red Square, the Kremlin, and the domes of St. Basil's Cathedral — are swarmed with World Cup fans doing a bit of sightseeing in between matches. Just upriver, more adventurous tourists will find an anonymous-looking apartment block whose history sheds light on the Soviet Union's darkest days.

The House on the Embankment embodies the history of revolution and dictatorship in miniature. It lies just upstream from the Kremlin and was completed in 1931 to house the Soviet Union's governing elite.

"These people living here were the so-called 'old Bolsheviks' [revolutionaries]. And they were people close to each other — in their spirit and ideology — as well as their fate," said Olga Trifonova, who runs the House on the Embankment museum, inside one of the block's roughly 500 apartments.

The museum displays some of the luxurious fittings and furniture the first residents enjoyed. The block offered in-house theaters and cafeterias, libraries and sports halls.

Soon, however, the ostentatious lifestyles of the residents began to look at odds with the ideals of the revolution.

In the mid-1930s, Soviet leader Josef Stalin began the "Great Purge" to rid the country of those deemed enemies of the working class. A million people were imprisoned and 700,000 executed. The residents of the House on the Embankment — once the elite of the revolution — were among the first in line. Arrests and disappearances created a crushing paranoia.

"The residents of the house stopped paying visits to each other. One stopped having confidence in other people," Trifonova said.

During the 1930s, 800 of the residents were arrested. Close to half of them were executed.

Olga Trifonova's late husband, Yuri, grew up in the House on the Embankment. His father was arrested during the purges in June 1937 and never seen again. His mother was sent to a Gulag prison in Kazakhstan. In 1976, Yuri Trifonov wrote a best-selling book about his memories, which gave the apartment block its name. He died in 1981.

"This is a story about the nature of fear. How fear mutilates a human for his entire life," Trifonova said.

Memories of that fear appear to be fading. An opinion poll last year crowned Stalin as Russia's most outstanding historical figure.

But the grim history of the House on the Embankment is not forgotten, according to Dmitry Taganov of real estate firm INCOM, which is selling some of the apartments on the block.

"Many buyers are scared off by the gloomy background of this House. Many people undoubtedly know about that, even the ones belonging to the younger generation."

A younger generation that is forming its own historical image of Stalin and the legacy of Communism.

俄國莫斯科（Moscow）最著名的幾個地標，像是紅場（Red Square）、克里姆林宮（the Kremlin）和聖瓦西里主教座堂（St. Basil's Cathedral，也譯作聖巴索大教堂）的洋蔥型圓頂(dome)，都擠滿(be swarmed with . . .)了 2018 年世界盃足球賽（World Cup）的球迷，他們趁著球賽之間的空檔觀光旅遊。不過，只要往莫斯科河（Moskva River）的上游走，更有冒險精神的(adventurous)遊客就會發現一座看上去不起眼的(anonymous-looking)公寓大樓(block)。這棟大樓的歷史反映(shed light on . . .)了蘇聯（Soviet Union）最黑暗的時光。

〔編按：俄羅斯（Russia）是「2018 年國際足總世界盃（2018 FIFA World Cup）」的主辦國，當地於 2018 年 6 月 14 日到 7 月 15 日期間共進行了 64 場比賽。〕

「堤上之家（House on the Embankment）」可說是革命(revolution)與獨裁(dictatorship)歷史的縮影(miniature)。這棟公寓大樓坐落在克里姆林宮的上游，於 1931 年落成，提供當時蘇聯的執政菁英(elite)居住。

這棟大樓約有 500 間公寓，其中一間目前由歐嘉．切夫諾娃（Olga Trifonova） 經營堤上之家博物館。她表示：「當時住在這裡的執政精英就是所謂的(so-called)『老布爾什維克（old Bolsheviks，即革命份子）』，他們彼此親近──精神思想和意識形態都很相似──就連命運也相去不遠。」

博物館展示了第一代住戶使用過的奢華配件(fittings)和家具。當年這棟公寓大樓內(In-house)也備有戲院、餐廳、圖書館和運動中心。

然而，不久後，住戶鋪張的(ostentatious)生活方式漸漸顯得和革命思想互相矛盾(at odds with . . .)。

1930 年代中期，蘇聯領導人史達林（Josef Stalin）發動「大整肅（Great Purge，也譯作『大清洗』）」，藉此肅清全國被視為勞工階級(working class)公敵的人。100 萬人被監禁(imprison)，70 萬人遭處決(execute)。堤上之家的住戶──曾是革命菁英的那群人──首當其衝(the first in line)。層出不窮的逮捕和失蹤導致嚴重的(crushing)猜忌和多疑(paranoia)。

「這棟大樓的住戶不再互相往來。彼此開始互不信任。」切夫諾娃表示。

1930 年代期間，800 名住戶被逮捕，將近一半慘遭處決。

切夫諾娃的亡夫尤里．切夫諾夫（Yuri Trifonov）就是在堤上之家長大。他的父親於 1937 年 6 月整肅期間遭到逮捕，從此音訊全無。他的母親則被送去哈薩克（Kazakhstan）的古拉格勞改營（Gulag）。1976 年，尤里將他的回憶寫成了暢銷書，這棟公寓大樓由此得名。（編按：書名為 The House on the Embankment，即《堤上之家》；中國出版的譯本譯作《濱河街公寓》。）尤里於 1981 年過世。

〔編按：勞改營（labor camp）又稱為「勞動營」，是一以強制勞動作為刑罰，強迫入獄者勞動的場所。〕

切夫諾娃說：「這個故事探討恐懼的本質(nature)，描述了恐懼如何摧毀(mutilate)一個人的一生。」

有關這份恐懼的記憶如今似乎正在消逝(fade)。去年一份民調(poll)顯示，史達林被票選為俄羅斯史上最傑出的歷史人物。

不過房地產(real estate)公司「INCOM」的德米特里．塔加諾夫（Dmitry Taganov）表示，堤上之家陰鬱的(grim)歷史並沒有被遺忘。INCOM 公司目前經手這棟大樓其中幾間公寓的買賣。

塔加諾夫說：「許多買家被這棟大樓陰沉的(gloomy)過去嚇跑(be scared off)。很多人絕對知道這段歷史，就連較年輕的世代都不例外。」

如何看待史達林及共產主義（Communism）的影響，較年輕的世代正在形成有別於上一代的歷史評價。